The Simien Mountains are in the north of Ethiopia and are home to over ten 4000-metre peaks. The tallest being Ras Dashen at 4600m. Our plan was not to hike up that but close enough with Bwahit at 4400m. Debark is the town at the starting point at around 3200m and the plan is to walk into the range, camping at 3 sites, taking in some peaks and wild animals along the way. We aimed to see baboon, wolf/fox and ibex and succeed with all. The wolf is the most amazing as there are only 30 left. See http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/. During the day, it is still hot but the temperature drops to just above freezing by early evening and I head for bed by 7pm shivering. Having brought my walking boots, and fleece to Ethiopia, I failed to bring them to the only place I will need them. With park fees and a guard compulsory (not sure why); we have also hired a guide, mules and a cook. Recognisable food is served at a table from a man dressed in chef whites. All very comical.
The mountain range offers great contrasts. You can feel incredibly small with the enourmity of the place yet turn around and see a truck driving through churning up dust right behind you. From the views you can look out and see nothing but more mountains for miles. Similar in style to the Blue Mountains – although much less green at the moment. Then look another way and you will see views reminiscent of the Lakes or the Peaks.
We stop off at a small village and are invited in for coffee. We are expected to pay of course; they are fully prepared for travellers. However, I've experienced many coffee ceremonies while I've been here but they've all been a little fake and easy. Here, life is difficult. Even in the middle of the day, very little light penetrates the hut. Inside is a small fire burning, it takes a while for me to get used to the smoke and darkness. When my eyes adjust, I see a sheep lying in the corner, a young child cradling a baby and a few commonly seen tourist keepsakes hanging on the wall. This time they're not for sale but real life tools that help the family cope with the challenges of day to day life. As we leave, the moment raises a common experience here. Do you pay over the odds for the coffee (as many other tourists will) and keep the expectation going that foreigners can afford it or pay the actual rate and look ungrateful?
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1 comment:
The photo's are brilliant
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