Monday 29 December 2008

Not Sharing Skills

I played my first game of football in Ethiopia today.  Apart from being unfit, under-skilled, playing in the dark and having no clue who was on which side – I think I held my own.  Not sure I can think of any more excuses.  It was meant to be a teacher's practise for a game against the local high school on Sunday morning.  Except the coach, no one else but me turned up.  Anyway, I joined in with the students and passed the test (whatever it was).  I am assured that for the game there will be kits and rules!  I'll let you know how the game goes.



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Sunday 28 December 2008

Ethiopian Pool Rules Addendum

Addendum:

 

Rule 8: After the white returns to the table after being potted, the white must travel over the baulk line before hitting the target ball.

 

Rule 9: The exception of no fouls on ball 3 has been changed due to ferenji pressure.  In Mekelle, fouls do count on ball 3 and like the potting score, the foul is worth 6.

 

Rule 15:  In the event of a tie at the end of the game, balls 1,2 and 3 are returned to the table.  Ball 3 in the usual position and balls 1 and 2 placed one on either side.  The winner is the player to pot two balls irrespective of ball value.

 



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Christmas Wishes

Thanks to all who sent their Christmas Wishes.  I hope those that received my card followed my instructions.  Crissy and I decided rather than carry our presents to Mekelle we would have an unofficial pre-Christmas Day on 23rd.  We cooked goat and had a fine selection of veg (if a little burnt).  Christmas Day was spent in Mekelle with other volunteers and counterparts.  25 people in all.  After copious quantities of mulled wine and G&T we all enjoyed roast lamb, roast and mashed potatoes, carrots, cabbage, cheesy leeks with yorkshire pud and gravy, which was followed by bread and butter pudding and date loaf.  Even the power going off later on did not spoil our fun, drinking into the night and eating lamb sarnies later on.  I hope you all had fun Christmas Days opening presents and eating lots.



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Thursday 18 December 2008

Long Way Down

For anyone struggling to imagine what Ethiopia may be like.  I can say that having watched the two episodes that cover Ethiopia from "The Long Way Down", they paint a good picture.  The end of episode 3 and beginning of 4 see them enter Ethiopia in the north and travel south to Kenya.  Unfortunately not exactly where I am but very similar.

 

You can see a video of the party here: http://www.youtube.com/v/F9ehBvC-jqU



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Sunday 14 December 2008

Environmental Day

Sometimes pictures have to be seen to be believed.  Check out the cleaning the campus pictures here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/.  Last week it was a countrywide environmental day, which I was informed meant that everybody was tasked with tidying their local area.  The fact that every training session I have attended, results in 50 teachers throwing their biscuit wrappers and bottle tops on the floor/school field, does not seem to connect with them.  So rather than picking up litter for a day, they take the opportunity to massacre the local foliage.  Photo 1 is a fine example of low hacking in a crouched position.  Photo 2 is the tricky art of raking bark backwards. Photo 3: Random high-hacking with machete. 6.0 6.0 6.0.

 

 



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Friday 12 December 2008

Goat Slaughter

The morning of the party was spent at a cattle market (with colleague) haggling for a goat.  Standard practise is to start low, disagree, wait, walk away, return, continue, argue and finally agree somewhere in between.  My price Birr 420 – looks healthy and ready for roasting.  Children hang around as normal but this time they carry rope and offer a goat-sitting/walking service until it is needed later.

 

I felt it important to watch the slaughter.  I imagine there are many children in the UK who are unaware where some of their meat comes from let alone how it is prepared and packed.  When I was younger, I witnessed a chicken being killed for dinner and later refused to eat it.  Although it did not put me off meat, I was apprehensive about what was to come.

 

WARNING!! - Do not read on if you are squeamish.  What follows is an honest description of the goat slaughter. 

 

Thankfully, in a country where animal welfare is low on their priority, the 16 year old, but very experienced butcher, made the whole process calm and simple.  Holding the goat by the horns, in one move he had the animal on its side and secure.  There was much less bleating and struggling than I expected.  In my opinion, the next part was the only unnecessary suffering caused from the slaughter.  Starting at the chin he cut down towards the throat.  The reason being is to save as much of the hide as possible for leather.  He can sell the skin for 10 Birr.  The throat was then cut quickly.  So I guess the killing lasted about 30 seconds in total.  Although twitching continued due to muscle movement, he cut into the hooves to check that the goat had completely died.  The back legs are then snapped back on themselves to make hanging loops.  The goat is then hung up to allow any remaining blood to drain.  He continued very much like an artist to slice and chop precisely, allowing him to push the skin away from the flesh, remove the hooves and head; before finally opening the rib cage and selecting which insides to keep.  Nothing is wasted.  The meat was then flavoured with a good dose of oil, garlic, salt, chilli, onion and red wine.  Everything was troughed.

 

I apologise if anyone is offended by this blog entry but for me, it was very interesting.

 

P.S. There are some pictures if anyone is interested.



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Thursday 11 December 2008

Sting in the tale

Contrary to popular belief, I do not drink often here.  However, as it was a party, and many had attended, I took the opportunity to drink more than usual.  So returning after the party (via a tej house and watching Manu v Sunderland) at about 11:30pm, I went to bed fully clothed.  I think I have set the scene and situation clearly.

 

I was woken about an hour later with Crissy knocking on the window.  "We have an emergency!".  "Vicky has stood on a scorpion."  Confused, I fumbled for the door key where I preceded to stand in front of Crissy, stating "I'm smashed" (or words to that effect), while she tried to elicit a coherent response from me for advice.  Giving up, she told me to return to bed while she searched for a driver.  Meanwhile, I forced myself to focus and went to see the patient.

 

Thankfully within a few minutes, Crissy returned with the Dean and a driver.  As it is common here and not fatal, he felt it unnecessary to visit the hospital but he decided to follow my drunken insistence to be on the safe side.  Not sure what I expected, but as we arrive at a dark, empty hospital, I decide to bang on all doors in an attempt to find a doctor.

 

A small hatch opened where we had to register Vicky for 5 Birr.  (Good job I still had my party clothes on).  The receptionist then provided a receipt – not until she and us had to go to the next hatch along.  While we wait the power goes off but it is not long before the on-call doctor is summoned from his dorm.  Like the dean, he is not worried but agrees to inject a local anaesthetic and prescribes ibuprofen.


Whether it was the needle, the tej or just the sheer excitement but this was shortly followed by me vomiting up in the grounds outside.  Little did I know that I would return on Tuesday to fix their computer – I hope they did not recognise me.  The following morning, she felt better and we saw she had actually been stung 6 times.  Think I'll wear flip flops around the house from now on.



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Wednesday 10 December 2008

Party On

My party in Mylomin at the weekend went well.  Some photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/ About 1 km from Abi Adi, it would probably be described as a hamlet in the UK.  However, when anyone refers to the place here, they are always talking about the bar.  I am not exaggerating when I call the setting "paradise".  The sort of place that in different circumstances could bring in huge amounts of money.  There is no need for a hotel even though the structure exists.  Anyway, I believe that is my Western head talking.  Everybody here just appreciates the place for what it is. 

 

The party was attended by a few volunteers and many colleagues.  I spent the morning buying vegetables, beer and purchasing a goat for slaughter (more later).  With the one local mini-taxi hired, tables and chairs ready organised and the bonfire built – everything was set.  It is traditional for all the chairs to be arranged into a circle like a large AA meeting.  Although reserved at first; it does not take long for the beer to be drunk, the goat meat to be cooked and faces to be stuffed; before the dancing begins.

 

Dancing here is an art form.  Every region (sometimes each village) has their own style.  Most northern versions resemble a group of chickens strutting their stuff.  Anyone wishing to replicate should, place both hands on their hips; and with their back straight and from the waist down, bounce up and down, while shaking their shoulders about (see photo 3). This transcends the Indian dance for anyone lucky enough to witness.  All participants then circulate, which is occasionally interspersed by an exuberant member who wishes to show why he is the best dancer.

 

The other format that is saved for elongated songs consists of a man and woman in the centre.  The man's duty being to dance around and entice the woman I guess, while she folds her arms and looks unimpressed.  This is followed at random intervals by another man stepping up to have a go.  With dutiful respect the first dancer sits down and provides the new contender an opportunity. (see photo 4 for a fine example from Kashau)

 

All in all, a fun evening



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Tuesday 9 December 2008

Shocking News

A sombre day as news travels quickly that a student committed suicide last night.  Thankfully, I am informed early on, as often information is not shared.  Classes are cancelled.  Although a first for this college, apparently it is not uncommon at University.  It is another reminder that I am often unfamiliar with cultural differences.  How should I act?  What should I say?  Some teachers appear unaffected, whereas others (in stark contrast to traditional culture) show open signs of emotion.  Rumours as usual, spread fast as to how and the reason why.  The popular line of reason is a positive test result for HIV.  All the more striking as last weekend was HIV Awareness Day with dramas, poems and music organised and performed by the students on the relevant dangers.



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Monday 8 December 2008

Quiztime

Name 3 American states with the letters USA in.

Answers as blog comments.



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Friday 5 December 2008

Driving

Well I got the chance to try out some driving today.  Not exactly off-road but close enough.  You can tell by my expression that I had to concentrate really hard.  Not just the driving on the wrong side, or even the dust and slippy stoney surface, but the mad bus drivers that charge towards you or appear from nowhere and overtake anywhere they feel like.  Don't think I'm really allowed by VSO or the college but don't tell anyone.  I think the driving test here is: Drive forward for 100 yards and turn around.  I blamed having a gear stick and handbrake on the right hand side for the close misses with other vehicles.

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Wednesday 3 December 2008

Fuel Crisis

The fuel crisis seems to have hit even the reaches of Ethiopia.  The buses are currently on strike due to rising fuel prices.  Ongoing disagreements with the government over ticket prices which have risen from 20-24 Birr while I've been here.  This often means that many people with their own transport take the opportunity, to illegally transport people around the country.  That said, some policemen clearly salute and smile, have a brief discussion and let you on your way.  Others however, can fine the driver 150 Birr – which is about the same as what he can make for his troubles.  On that note, I have to say that the policemen look absolutely hilarious.  They ride around on these old motorbikes, with white "Chips" style helmets and long black jackets and large shades.  Not sure I should smile so much when they board the bus!

 



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Tuesday 2 December 2008

Monday 1 December 2008

Power On

I went to a school today to set up their computer and provide some initial training.  After being picked up at 6am and travelling 90 minutes over rough ground we arrived.  The usual mix of local children hang around once they see a ferenji visiting.  Walking around the village we visit a restaurant and try out some Tigrinian.  And on the way back, what looks like someone's front room we enjoy a coffee or two.  The weather is fine all day.  All things considered an enjoyable day – except the school had no power all day!



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