You can view my friend's blog here alexlittle.net. He is an IT volunteer at Mekelle.
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Friday 31 October 2008
Wednesday 29 October 2008
Chelenqua
Visiting Mekelle (one of my IT purchasing trips) I was able to do the tourist thing and walk to a nearby waterfall. The nearby village was a 5km walk from Mekelle across a set of fields of tef -turned into flour to make injera. On the journey, a man walking his donkey decided it was his duty to carry our bottled water and directed a young lad to guide (called guards) us to the waterfall when we arrived in the village. The guide book prepares you for the excitement and clamour that exists to be your official guard. We quickly had a group following us who all intended to claim sole rights over this role. After some negotiation we agreed on two guides, the original young lad who spoke no English (age 7ish) and a 10 year old who spoke very good English, leaving some older lads very disgruntled.
On the far side of the village and down a very dry, steep, slope with stone walls used to prevent erosion and growing we saw the falls in front of us. Although no larger than a waterfall in the UK, the sight of water really does become an oddity. I've passed a river the other day and just stared at it.
Down the slope and using the fertile land a farmer was growing a fine selection of fruit and vegetables – reminded of a corn field in a horror movie. I stopped regularly to rest in the heat (although pretended I was taking photos) while our guide became restless with the pace. A quick reminder of his fee shut him up.
I was not expecting the site at the base of the falls. As I climbed up the rocks, there was a party of 20 or so locals swimming and diving away with a stereo and tv that had been brought down. I was later told that people convert tvs to run on battery power!?
Unfortunately, thirty minutes later as we headed off up the slope, an older boy who had hung around asked me for his payment. He did seem to accept that he had not shown us where the falls were. As he grabbed hold of our guide and we walked off, he spoilt the atmosphere with idol threats about returning and throwing stones. Thankfully, further up the slope, our friendly guide caught us up. However he told us that the other boy had stolen money from him.
At the top and back on through the village, our younger guide accepted the money, while our English speaking guide decided he should have more and followed us for a while. We decided that whatever he got he would have wanted more and we felt comfortable that he had been paid well. Apart from the constant barrage of "you", "give me money" and "ferenji", a good day.
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Tuesday 28 October 2008
For my sins
Not even for a drunken bet I have signed up to run in the Ethiopian 10km run. In the centre of Addis at 2400m and 30oC, I will attempt to complete a distance I could previously run at ease. I tried to run here in Abi Adi the other day and found it quite difficult. The altitude and heat make it very different. Although I do not intend to set up any formal charity collection. For anyone interested and looking for more information of how they can help, click here: http://www.actionaid.org.uk/101389/great_ethiopian_run.html
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Monday 27 October 2008
Pictures & Videos
More Photos can be viewed here: (mostly taken from Myknetal -the nearest town north towards Adwa where we visited a school that we donated a computer to.)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/
A short dance video from the end of our training in Addis at the Red Cross Training Centre can be viewed here: (watch carefully or you might miss me)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxLsK868_To
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/
A short dance video from the end of our training in Addis at the Red Cross Training Centre can be viewed here: (watch carefully or you might miss me)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxLsK868_To
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And the list goes on
It would appear that just about everyone I meet is moving on. The basic system here is to start working in the small places and move to the big city after a few years. This however means that some places (including here) get very high turnover of staff. Hence the constant need to train. I'm beginning to wonder if it something I said. Having said that, I am beginning to feel very much at home here.
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Sunday 26 October 2008
Working my way through it all
The previous post I should have explained was another volunteer's experience. I was not trying to donate 1400 books. Everything revolves around getting three copies signed with a purple stamp. It's tempting to get one made up. I think I previously mentioned how awkward it was borrowing a tape measure from the store to use. Well the list goes on: A paint brush for the day I decided the ICT lab needed a sprucing up; a folder and pens to complete an audit, floppy disks to repair machines, dust covers to be cleaned. You name it everything is signed over. I've finally arranged a procedure for replacing broken parts to fix computers. A new part can be bought (instead of the usual practise of replacing an entire PC) by the office involved signing out the new part, replacing working for broken and then returning the broken item to the store!
So without a budget or understanding of how to purchase goods here, I have managed to create a list of desired materials. Ringing shops in the area proved pointless as they either did not have, did not answer or the tiniest of shop refused to sell less than 30 of anything. Without boring every inch of you, more than I have done myself I will try to explain what I have had to do this week regards work. [Although I believe there is a feeling going around that I am not working.]
Travelled to Mekelle. Visited shops and showed them the list of items to see what they sold and how "with it" they were. Returned to provide them with a purple stamped version. Returned to pick up closed completed lists with prices. Returned to Abi Adi. Read completed lists (only after signing closed envelope and every sheet inside). Completed table highlighting cheapest option for each item. Two days later, returned to Mekelle. Returned to every shop with questions about specifications of listed items and re-wrote list explaining why cheapest is not always the best option. This could well be my biggest challenge here.
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Friday 24 October 2008
Procedures
Procedure for removing 1400 books from the store and donating to 52 schools.
1. Write a list of books (title and author) that are required, while battling against dust and ants on bookshelf.
2. Wait for the list to be typed up by the store lady. This list may not be accurate: "Prehistoric Arousals" or "Hen's Pens Jokes" with an extra i!
3. Optional - Check list yourself for accuracy of titles.
4. Cross check that similar versions are included as the same and count number of books.
5. Write a letter to the Dean and both Vice-Deans requesting books be released from the store. All copies of letter should be signed by two people from the department.
6. Provide the management committee, who meet every 3 months, with the list of books to be released from the store. Wait for their agreement (any inaccuracies require another committee)
7. Pass agreement to the Dean and both Vice Deans to enable the infamous Purple Stamp!
8. Take approval to the store to get books released.
9. Sign the list into your possession.
10. Every book on the list is checked off against the master list out of the store.
11. Any inaccuracies (even minor i.e. wrong author or number of books different) in the list require a new list to be stamped.
12. Sort books into piles for cluster schools and create sub-lists for each school.
13. Three copies of each sub-list are sent to receive a purple stamp.
14. Each school checks their pile of books with their list and signs three copies of their sub-list into their possession. One copy for the school, one for the book store and one for the vice-dean.
15. Once the books arrive at each school, they are required to send headed notepaper as a stamped receipt for the books.
16. Kids enjoy reading!
P.S. All of these books were donated (not bought) to the college by various charities.
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Thursday 23 October 2008
Challenges
Day to day life has already thrown up its challenges. I've started to use the mosquito net after a few bites and sleepless nights with constant buzzing. I should be high and dry enough to avoid malaria but I'm taking tablets anyway. In actual fact, mozzies are the least of my worries. The house, as previously stated is a popular haven for the local ant colony, herd of cockroaches, and selection of spiders and has even hosted grasshoppers, a scorpion and a snake. Hands up all those who still want to come to visit?
Regular evening power cuts have made cooking interesting. Thankfully, my solar shower does not look like it is about to run out of power any time soon. We are provided with a kerosene stove but it helps if you buy the fuel first. As long as you are frying something it's not too hard to transfer over. So far I've made tuna pasta, lentil curry and veggie burgers. While some of you roll around laughing at this prospect, I can assure you that the meat hanging up in the heat surrounded by flies does not look entirely appetising. We were provided with a recipe book to cook British and Ethiopian food with the ingredients available. I've already earmarked bread, pizza, my brownies, fish cakes and some local "tibs" and "shiro". The local Saturday market provides a little more choice than the local shop as eggs, peppers and various spices can be added to my larder.
Power cuts at work meant starting to download the latest virus definitions about eight times the other day. I wish I had brought a spare laptop battery. On the upside – one, I've finally got the Internet sorted at my house so I can receive your emails thick and fast and two, I have a maid who washes my clothes, mops the floor and generally tidys up. Although she has been prone to choosing which clothes get washed. What is she trying to tell me?
I know I appear to finish every blog entry with "I'm off/have been drinking", but I assure you that it's an entire coincidence. Today's establishment was in the local village called Mylomin (meaning Water Lemon) where I drank more "tej" – the honey flavoured wine from conical flasks as seen in the pictures at flicker.com. The village also plays host to the source of the bottled water with the same name.
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Monday 20 October 2008
More pictures
More pictures can be viewed here http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/
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Ethiopian Pool Rules
Aim
1. To score more points (using the value of each ball) than your opponent by potting higher value balls. Therefore the winner is the player that has a greater positive score when all the balls are potted.
Layout
2. The table is set out as the picture indicates with balls 15 down to 10 equally placed on the left hand side cushion of the table starting at the baulk end – pocket to pocket. Balls 9 down to 4 on the opposite side.
3. Ball 3 is placed in the middle at the far end.
4. Balls 1 and 2 are discarded.
Rules
5. Players are required to hit the balls by striking the white and take turns accordingly.
6. Players should aim to pot all the balls sequentially beginning with 3, through to 15.
7. However a higher value ball can be potted out of order (and the points awarded), as long as the target ball is hit first.
8. After the white is potted, the ball returns to the table behind the baulk line and must travel down the table towards the far end.
Break
9. Play begins with a player making a break, by striking the white behind the baulk line and hitting ball 3. No fouls are counted before ball 3 is potted.
Points
10. Except for ball 3, all balls when potted have their face value. Ball 3 is worth 6.
11. When a foul is committed, the value of the ball hit or potted or the intended ball, is used as points for the opponent. Fouls: (a) a ball is hit out of sequence or (b) the white ball is potted or leaves the table.
12. More than one ball can be potted in the same shot as long as the target ball is struck first.
13. When scoring the total number of points collected is not used. However the difference between players is kept. i.e 12-9 is called as 3 to player 1. OR 2-8 is called as 6 to player 2.
14. Play stops if the remaining balls do not total more than the difference.
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Thursday 16 October 2008
Settling in
So another week is on its way and whereas work before has been new and exciting, I now feel that I am making headway and starting to do something. Other volunteers have yet to start (often due to the placement being inept and disorganised). Thankfully, my college was one of the first to work with VSO and is well versed in what to expect – whether it to be a ferenji moan or crazy behaviour – they've seen it all before.
Last weekend I visited Mekelle to see friends and shop. My first attempt at using the bus service. A 5am start for a not entirely expected departure for 6am. In fact, I was very lucky, as it left at 7. The mixture of desires to sleep and see the scenery at the same time mean I see nothing and bang my head on the window every time the bus goes over a stone. The experience is interesting as a number of passengers request small plastic bags to be sick in (I later find out that it could well be their first time on transport) before throwing them out of the window. This is nothing to the constant spitting due to small sticks being used as toothpaste and a steady stream of something liquid on the floor!
The weekend was fun, as we went out to a club and danced the night away Tigrinian style – i.e. the epileptic chicken dance interspersed with a little Bob Marley, Queen and Buena Vista?!. Pizza and a fancy hotel was a real treat. I was able to buy bulbs and dividers so now have light in the bedroom and kitchen. I won't miss cooking by candle-light. The open air market and selection of shops makes the place feel like a sprawling metropolis. The highlight however was attending an Ethiopian wedding. While there were many similarities: swapping of rings, priest talking, eating food and drinking; there were many differences. The day begins at the grooms (with dancing in and outside the house), who then with his posse travels to the bride's house (followed by dancing in and outside the house). After the food and families swap gifts, both clans travel back to the grooms for yes … more dancing in and outside the house. Everything at the moment is not only new, but often a real eye opener, head turner or to quote Blood Diamond – TIA. Even the journeys between the houses were interesting. As a line taxi normally meant for 10 doubles its capacity, to avoid being stopped and presumably to make it "legal", it beeps its horn when a policeman is in sight. Nevertheless, for those who witnessed my Indian flower dance, you have a treat in store when I return.
The journey back in the space of a few minutes showed real contrasts within the culture. Not only did a stranger offer to help me pay my fare (the price rose over the weekend and I did not have enough) but also a whip round along the way of small change was thrown out to lone shops (presumably an occasional provision stop). However this was followed by a guard stopping the bus, demanding to see tickets from random people, who then proceeded to throw them back at the traveller's feet. Needless to say he did not ask to see mine.
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Tuesday 14 October 2008
First few pictures
Click here to view a selection of my first few pictures.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/
P.S. The bizarre flickering grey shot is - Baby racing.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/
P.S. The bizarre flickering grey shot is - Baby racing.
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Saturday 11 October 2008
Abi Adi - My first week
Tena-hab-alay (or at least that's how we now say "Hello" as we are now in Tigray.
So I left you in the bar on my first day. A week has now passed which seems like a lifetime. While, Abi Adi literally means "big town", it is in fact a small rapidly expanding town with one or two shops, bars, restaurants and cafes – and thankfully nothing Western. The Bradt guide states that it "holds little of interest". While that may sound harsh, this opinion appears to be shared by a number of the staff as their main aim is to move to Mekelle (the regional capital).
A few local shops speak English, while I learn the local dialect. One owner is prepared to travel to Mekelle (3 hours on bus) and get something not available here for me. I've been able to open a bank account - complete with written bank book and grey passport photograph taken with a 1970s camera and large bulb flash. Over the next few days I will get a phone line and Internet connection at my house. Tomatoes, peppers, red onions, potatoes and garlic are all readily available and the fruit smoothies of mango and lime are utterly amazing. Probably the oddest thing is my new liking for coffee and tea – admittedly both laced with sugar.
My single storey house (with the expected four rooms) is situated on the college campus, a 30 minute walk from the town itself, although a college car or bus always seems to be travelling in that direction. While VSO states each house should have a minimum of a bed, table and chair, I am lucky enough to have a fridge/freezer, "fairly-constant" electricity (see below), a hot shower, oven and phone line (allowing for the Internet). AND… Bills are paid for.
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I will be sharing the college's PO Box in the town, so anyone wishing to send goodies, please do ask! All water for drinking is boiled and filtered which is not too bad with the equipment provided – especially with 90 minute lunch breaks and 2½ hours on Friday. To be honest the only hassle I've had regarding the house has been the consistent invasion of ants through ever small crevice that has not already been covered or filled with chalk or ash. Waking up in bed and finding that your pillow and head have ants crawling over them will be moment that will never leave me. I've used up 4 cans of insect killer and decorated each socket (a favourite entry point) with a multi-coloured selection of chalk.
Passing time in the evening has not been an issue. Tony kindly gave me a book before I left, and so far I am half way through "A Spot Of Bother" by Mark Haddon (follow up to The Curious Incident of Dog in the Night Time). Maybe I'll finish my first novel. I've also started eating my way through the enormous selection of TV series I ripped off everybody before leaving (which has doubled after all the volunteers spent an evening sharing). Considering how much TV I watched, there's a huge array of new stuff to watch. Currently enjoying "Coupling" – Thanks Leander and "Spaced" is a gem I missed the first time. As the nights arrive about half 6, by the time I've made dinner, the brain is still telling me that 9 o'clock is late.
The campus is large enough for 3 teaching blocks, 6 halls of residence, about 12 houses and various staff and student common rooms. The staff lounge sells a selection of egg/tomato foods and drinks - Pepsi and Minanda(Fanta) all for less than 25p. We have a fence around the site with a permanent guard day and night, although I have no reason to feel threatened by anyone or risk theft. That said it was interesting have the local prisoners in to cut the grass down. I felt slightly locked up when at lunchtime they moved on mass to cut the grass around my house. Half of them chopping away with machetes and scythes, while the others just stare at the strange white boy in his house. Although the guards carrying machine guns, I'm not convinced they are all dangerous. I heard that one lad got 9 months for hitting his boss after the boss sacked him because he didn't receive his sick note on time. It's taken a while but it's been much weirder getting used to the number of stray dogs and cats that roam the place. Fed by scraps, they spend the day fighting each other, producing more stray puppies and kittens and the night howling.
Onto the electricity. Before we left Addis, another volunteer, explained the importance of using a stabiliser here. [BORING BIT: it equalises the voltage so that it remains constant to avoid damaging sensitive equipment such as laptops] Thankfully, he was correct as numerous times it clicks away – I guess doing exactly what it says on the tin. Considering I brought, an electric toothbrush, hair clippers, phone charger, battery charger, laptop and of course I cook with electricity, I hope it continues to work. Apparently, I've been lucky so far, as even though it sometimes goes off at least 5 times a day - the most without electricity has been less than an hour. However, bearing in mind that I'm working on computers and trying desperately to download virus definitions, that can cause problems to say the least. The college has some solar power but lets just say that is not an option exactly either.
My first day, I sat with my technical counterpart getting to know what he thought and what equipment the college had. He has interesting ideas and organisational skills. Certain plans such as (i) data-basing the store room (more on that another time) and (ii) getting teachers to program their own training software, I feel should be delayed until they can all use Anti-virus and Word and we find out what machines we do actually have.
So my first task at work was to sort out the Internet. I hear people say: "It hasn't worked for months and everyone is very keen to do their research".. So I take a telephone to the line, it's dead, no dial tone, and tell them to call the ETC (Ethiopian Telecommunciations). First job tick. Well when I say tick. We call them 4 times, they come on Saturday when I'm not there and don't finish until Monday. And let's face it – it's still Dial-Up. The ETC by the way are a "private" monopoly, which also control the distribution and release of SIMs. So 380 for a SIM, 280 for a phone line and 180 for an Internet account – half a months salary.
My second day – College closed - National Holiday (as was the Saturday previous). There's actually about 20 of them a year. However, I offer to help the other volunteer here (Crissy) plan her cluster training for tomorrow. Local headteachers (Directors) and Inspectors come to learn about the term "inclusion". She has set up a model classroom for schools to incorporate showing off a variety of home-made but very recognisable tools and resources. Bottle tops as counters, a light bulb filled with water as a magnifying glass, linen and seeds with burrs on as Velcro and an amazing selection of models made by the students (trainee teachers). Unfortunately, I soon realise that one of my plans to produce posters is not feasible due to the lack of printers that each school will have. And using college resources is not possible.
The next few days are about updating the college with the latest virus definitions that I brought out. Scanning and planning training for all staff to ensure the spread is reduced is top priority. The main one here is called File1 – which if opened, renames every single one of your documents. No-one seems duly bothered when this happens however. Although removing viruses from computers is time consuming and boring, nothing quite compares to the government procedures and rules set up to combat corruption. Everything is owned and henced signed for. It took an hour to get a tape measure from the store before I could measure the size of the computer lab. Don't even get me started on the palaver I had trying to understand why I could not take a working CD drive from a broken machine in order to fix another.
I'd already met a number of people over the weekend, all very helpful, friendly and keen for me to do training. Crissy's counterpart, Yukeno has attempted to teach me some simple Tigrinyan. I wanted to find out what the menu in the staff lounge said but he was far more keen to go through every greeting polite and informal that exists on the planet. Never shall a person just pass another without discussing their previous evening and family. I was invited around to a teacher's house for lunch and coffee ceremony on Saturday afternoon. VSO told us to avoid politics and any talk about the government so try in vain but it's of little use. The highlight had to be me eating scrappy meat joints from a watery dish (which were pretty lean and tasteless). After they looked at me, offered me more and smiled, I realised that it was a actually a soup. For the record, tibs was yet again on the menu – a firm favourite here. Tonight I'm heading out on the town, with the vice-dean. Will the hard work ever stop!
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Wednesday 1 October 2008
Travelling North
The previous night, I said my goodbyes to a great bunch of people, who I had only known for a short time, all with similar emotions and challenges ahead. I may only return to the capital once or twice in my time here.
Internal flights are early, so we departed around 6am. This should have been a simple affair, however, in an effort to counteract corruption,
So I travelled north with a number of other volunteers who will be working in the Tigray region (see You Tube video below). After an hour-long journey we landed in Mekelle (home for some), which is much hotter than the capital (its 8.30 and 20 degrees). I spend the day buying a few more bulky and food items, enough to keep my going for the first week. Prices are more expensive out of the capital and have also risen dramatically everywhere (due to world issues). Thankfully, Thasika (Canadian volunteer, leaving Abi Adi for Mekelle) is doing an amazing job of showing my around everywhere. There is no need to say goodbyes to those I have travelled here with, as I understand that Mekelle will be my second home, as a college car and twice daily buses will provide a small amount of civilisation every so often.
Later on that day a college car takes me on my final stage. There is a good unsurfaced road leading off into the hills which should take about 3 hours. For most of the journey I can not avoid sleep, but for the times I am awake, the scenery is amazing as the road zig-zags up and down the mountains and through a number of small, expanding villages. A few hours later, I arrive at my final destination!
Ahead of me I see a small town nestled in a valley, the fields around, although sandy are still very green. I am told that within a month, the place will be dusty and brown. Crossing the bridge on entering Abi Adi, I see that the rainy season has had little impact on the dried up river. The town centre is nothing more than a roundabout where four roads merge. The driver turns and stares at me as I shout out and exclaim that I recognise the bank (see picture below of grey building). The college where I will be working and living is a short distance on the other side of Abi Adi.
I waste no time and head off to sample the local delicacy and beverage. On the menu tonight – tibs (small chunks of goat meat) with chilli and injera, all washed down with the local brew – a fine lager called St. George!
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