Click here to view a selection of my first few pictures.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/
P.S. The bizarre flickering grey shot is - Baby racing.
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Tuesday, 14 October 2008
Saturday, 11 October 2008
Abi Adi - My first week
Tena-hab-alay (or at least that's how we now say "Hello" as we are now in Tigray.
So I left you in the bar on my first day. A week has now passed which seems like a lifetime. While, Abi Adi literally means "big town", it is in fact a small rapidly expanding town with one or two shops, bars, restaurants and cafes – and thankfully nothing Western. The Bradt guide states that it "holds little of interest". While that may sound harsh, this opinion appears to be shared by a number of the staff as their main aim is to move to Mekelle (the regional capital).
A few local shops speak English, while I learn the local dialect. One owner is prepared to travel to Mekelle (3 hours on bus) and get something not available here for me. I've been able to open a bank account - complete with written bank book and grey passport photograph taken with a 1970s camera and large bulb flash. Over the next few days I will get a phone line and Internet connection at my house. Tomatoes, peppers, red onions, potatoes and garlic are all readily available and the fruit smoothies of mango and lime are utterly amazing. Probably the oddest thing is my new liking for coffee and tea – admittedly both laced with sugar.
My single storey house (with the expected four rooms) is situated on the college campus, a 30 minute walk from the town itself, although a college car or bus always seems to be travelling in that direction. While VSO states each house should have a minimum of a bed, table and chair, I am lucky enough to have a fridge/freezer, "fairly-constant" electricity (see below), a hot shower, oven and phone line (allowing for the Internet). AND… Bills are paid for.
<center> *** Blog replies ordering your top 5 most important amenities, please *** </center>
I will be sharing the college's PO Box in the town, so anyone wishing to send goodies, please do ask! All water for drinking is boiled and filtered which is not too bad with the equipment provided – especially with 90 minute lunch breaks and 2½ hours on Friday. To be honest the only hassle I've had regarding the house has been the consistent invasion of ants through ever small crevice that has not already been covered or filled with chalk or ash. Waking up in bed and finding that your pillow and head have ants crawling over them will be moment that will never leave me. I've used up 4 cans of insect killer and decorated each socket (a favourite entry point) with a multi-coloured selection of chalk.
Passing time in the evening has not been an issue. Tony kindly gave me a book before I left, and so far I am half way through "A Spot Of Bother" by Mark Haddon (follow up to The Curious Incident of Dog in the Night Time). Maybe I'll finish my first novel. I've also started eating my way through the enormous selection of TV series I ripped off everybody before leaving (which has doubled after all the volunteers spent an evening sharing). Considering how much TV I watched, there's a huge array of new stuff to watch. Currently enjoying "Coupling" – Thanks Leander and "Spaced" is a gem I missed the first time. As the nights arrive about half 6, by the time I've made dinner, the brain is still telling me that 9 o'clock is late.
The campus is large enough for 3 teaching blocks, 6 halls of residence, about 12 houses and various staff and student common rooms. The staff lounge sells a selection of egg/tomato foods and drinks - Pepsi and Minanda(Fanta) all for less than 25p. We have a fence around the site with a permanent guard day and night, although I have no reason to feel threatened by anyone or risk theft. That said it was interesting have the local prisoners in to cut the grass down. I felt slightly locked up when at lunchtime they moved on mass to cut the grass around my house. Half of them chopping away with machetes and scythes, while the others just stare at the strange white boy in his house. Although the guards carrying machine guns, I'm not convinced they are all dangerous. I heard that one lad got 9 months for hitting his boss after the boss sacked him because he didn't receive his sick note on time. It's taken a while but it's been much weirder getting used to the number of stray dogs and cats that roam the place. Fed by scraps, they spend the day fighting each other, producing more stray puppies and kittens and the night howling.
Onto the electricity. Before we left Addis, another volunteer, explained the importance of using a stabiliser here. [BORING BIT: it equalises the voltage so that it remains constant to avoid damaging sensitive equipment such as laptops] Thankfully, he was correct as numerous times it clicks away – I guess doing exactly what it says on the tin. Considering I brought, an electric toothbrush, hair clippers, phone charger, battery charger, laptop and of course I cook with electricity, I hope it continues to work. Apparently, I've been lucky so far, as even though it sometimes goes off at least 5 times a day - the most without electricity has been less than an hour. However, bearing in mind that I'm working on computers and trying desperately to download virus definitions, that can cause problems to say the least. The college has some solar power but lets just say that is not an option exactly either.
My first day, I sat with my technical counterpart getting to know what he thought and what equipment the college had. He has interesting ideas and organisational skills. Certain plans such as (i) data-basing the store room (more on that another time) and (ii) getting teachers to program their own training software, I feel should be delayed until they can all use Anti-virus and Word and we find out what machines we do actually have.
So my first task at work was to sort out the Internet. I hear people say: "It hasn't worked for months and everyone is very keen to do their research".. So I take a telephone to the line, it's dead, no dial tone, and tell them to call the ETC (Ethiopian Telecommunciations). First job tick. Well when I say tick. We call them 4 times, they come on Saturday when I'm not there and don't finish until Monday. And let's face it – it's still Dial-Up. The ETC by the way are a "private" monopoly, which also control the distribution and release of SIMs. So 380 for a SIM, 280 for a phone line and 180 for an Internet account – half a months salary.
My second day – College closed - National Holiday (as was the Saturday previous). There's actually about 20 of them a year. However, I offer to help the other volunteer here (Crissy) plan her cluster training for tomorrow. Local headteachers (Directors) and Inspectors come to learn about the term "inclusion". She has set up a model classroom for schools to incorporate showing off a variety of home-made but very recognisable tools and resources. Bottle tops as counters, a light bulb filled with water as a magnifying glass, linen and seeds with burrs on as Velcro and an amazing selection of models made by the students (trainee teachers). Unfortunately, I soon realise that one of my plans to produce posters is not feasible due to the lack of printers that each school will have. And using college resources is not possible.
The next few days are about updating the college with the latest virus definitions that I brought out. Scanning and planning training for all staff to ensure the spread is reduced is top priority. The main one here is called File1 – which if opened, renames every single one of your documents. No-one seems duly bothered when this happens however. Although removing viruses from computers is time consuming and boring, nothing quite compares to the government procedures and rules set up to combat corruption. Everything is owned and henced signed for. It took an hour to get a tape measure from the store before I could measure the size of the computer lab. Don't even get me started on the palaver I had trying to understand why I could not take a working CD drive from a broken machine in order to fix another.
I'd already met a number of people over the weekend, all very helpful, friendly and keen for me to do training. Crissy's counterpart, Yukeno has attempted to teach me some simple Tigrinyan. I wanted to find out what the menu in the staff lounge said but he was far more keen to go through every greeting polite and informal that exists on the planet. Never shall a person just pass another without discussing their previous evening and family. I was invited around to a teacher's house for lunch and coffee ceremony on Saturday afternoon. VSO told us to avoid politics and any talk about the government so try in vain but it's of little use. The highlight had to be me eating scrappy meat joints from a watery dish (which were pretty lean and tasteless). After they looked at me, offered me more and smiled, I realised that it was a actually a soup. For the record, tibs was yet again on the menu – a firm favourite here. Tonight I'm heading out on the town, with the vice-dean. Will the hard work ever stop!
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Wednesday, 1 October 2008
Travelling North
The previous night, I said my goodbyes to a great bunch of people, who I had only known for a short time, all with similar emotions and challenges ahead. I may only return to the capital once or twice in my time here.
Internal flights are early, so we departed around 6am. This should have been a simple affair, however, in an effort to counteract corruption,
So I travelled north with a number of other volunteers who will be working in the Tigray region (see You Tube video below). After an hour-long journey we landed in Mekelle (home for some), which is much hotter than the capital (its 8.30 and 20 degrees). I spend the day buying a few more bulky and food items, enough to keep my going for the first week. Prices are more expensive out of the capital and have also risen dramatically everywhere (due to world issues). Thankfully, Thasika (Canadian volunteer, leaving Abi Adi for Mekelle) is doing an amazing job of showing my around everywhere. There is no need to say goodbyes to those I have travelled here with, as I understand that Mekelle will be my second home, as a college car and twice daily buses will provide a small amount of civilisation every so often.
Later on that day a college car takes me on my final stage. There is a good unsurfaced road leading off into the hills which should take about 3 hours. For most of the journey I can not avoid sleep, but for the times I am awake, the scenery is amazing as the road zig-zags up and down the mountains and through a number of small, expanding villages. A few hours later, I arrive at my final destination!
Ahead of me I see a small town nestled in a valley, the fields around, although sandy are still very green. I am told that within a month, the place will be dusty and brown. Crossing the bridge on entering Abi Adi, I see that the rainy season has had little impact on the dried up river. The town centre is nothing more than a roundabout where four roads merge. The driver turns and stares at me as I shout out and exclaim that I recognise the bank (see picture below of grey building). The college where I will be working and living is a short distance on the other side of Abi Adi.
I waste no time and head off to sample the local delicacy and beverage. On the menu tonight – tibs (small chunks of goat meat) with chilli and injera, all washed down with the local brew – a fine lager called St. George!
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Monday, 29 September 2008
Initial Training
The one Internet provider (ETC) has banned blogspot from working so my brother has kindly offered to post my messages. However someone has informed me that it is still possible to send an email to the site so I will look into that.
Apologies for taking so long to update you all on my whereabouts. In Country Training, otherwise known as ICT, (confusing at first for me!) was fantastic. As I said previously we have been located at a Red Cross Training Centre in the capital – Addis Ababa, which is 2400m above sea level. I’ve not experienced any altitude sickness or tummy upset – many others unfortunately have.
The place is great with hot showers and good food. The staple food is called “injera”. Looks and has the texture rather like a rolled up piece of grey carpet underlay and tastes fairly bland also – but it is a good mop for the many types of “wat” – which is essentially curry. The kitchen also seem intent on deep frying every vegetable available – including carrot and courgette. For the less brave, a good selection of pasta (the Italians were here for a while), chips and salad are available. Although we have been warned off lettuce, due to the risk of it holding the water it has been washed in. All in all, I’ve not lost any weight.
The few people I met while training and have been emailing are all here. Most of them will be close by – well within 100km! There are also volunteers from Canada, Philippines, Kenya, Uganda, Sweden and Netherlands – about 10 of them are also doing IT training. At the end of the ICT training – we had a two day IT course to meet existing IT volunteers. We are all “computer experts”. The second day was mainly “sharing” knowledge and skills.
A fair chunk of the sessions involved language training – Amharic. Not dissimilar from a KS3 syllabus we have covered the basics in taxis, shopping, directions, questions, counting – and especially greetings – which is a massive deal here. (If I can attach the photo properly the image is a very polite greeting pronounced - Ten-i-istiling) Unfortunately, although the national language is Amharic – where I’m going they mainly speak – Tigrinian!
As well as language training, we have had many lectures on Ethiopian culture. The “Dos and Don’ts”, expectations, similarities and differences etc. Thankfully, after a few days we were let loose to practise our language as we embarked on a pre-set scavenger hunt in groups. This involved using the “in-line” taxis, which constantly weave in and out of other traffic, carrying passengers around, and in and out of the centre. Standing at the side of the road, you listen for the final destination that the “redat” shouts (boys aged 7-15). Squashing on, you pay about 1-2 Birr (5-10p) and shout “woraj” when you want to stop.
Everyone, as you would expect, is very friendly and helpful. They want to practise speaking English so often make things easier, even when faced with difficulties, there is always someone else who translates. The city offers pretty much anything you may want to buy. Most things being cheaper – expect luxury Western items like chocolate. We had to buy our vegetable team name – red onion, a paper and find the price of various other items. However, I can proudly announce that my group won, even though I was charged eight times too much to get my shoes cleaned, cooking oil as a shiner is extra! You live and learn. Although admittedly, we were lucky enough to be called a vegetable that was in season and readily available.
The weather has generally been very good. It is nearing the end of the rainy season, so when it rains, it pours. Addis is generally cooler than further north where I’m going. I’ve been caught out twice without a jacket and returned soaked to the skin, which has brought great hilarity to the local population, who shout laugh and shout “ferenji”, which means “Westerner”. Generally, people stop everything when it rains and take shelter anywhere they can find. I took the opportunity to buy some stamps, which took a while to realise that everything is weighed, so had to guess what I’d be sending. As there are no addresses here as such, people rent PO Boxes. Round the corner was the bank, (they shut early here also!) where I needed to change 100Birr (£5) notes into ones. Standing on the steps, outside the bank, the road slowly turned into a river making me wish I’d brought my umbrella and wellies.
I’ve been lucky enough to meet the Dean, Vice-dean and my counterpart at the college, as well as two current volunteers at the college. We went for a pizza so I have not been completely bereft of Western food. There is a good selection of restaurants and bars, so you can find always find something to eat. Although after attempting to translate the menu, you may find that most of it is not available. There is a bar around the corner from the training centre, so that has seen many of us keeping the staff working late. My last round of 30 drinks cost 240 Birr (£12)! Although in perspective I shall be earning £125 a month.
Thankfully as Ethiopia, like most of Africa, is football crazy so there is always a bar that is showing football, particularly the Champions League. At least there are more Manchester United fans here. The two-hour time difference means watching from 10pm-12pm. Which interestingly is 4-6 Habasha night time (Ethiopian time) as the day runs from 6am in the morning through to 6pm at night.
Thanks for reading and hopefully I’ll update you on my actual placement next time.
Apologies for taking so long to update you all on my whereabouts. In Country Training, otherwise known as ICT, (confusing at first for me!) was fantastic. As I said previously we have been located at a Red Cross Training Centre in the capital – Addis Ababa, which is 2400m above sea level. I’ve not experienced any altitude sickness or tummy upset – many others unfortunately have.
The place is great with hot showers and good food. The staple food is called “injera”. Looks and has the texture rather like a rolled up piece of grey carpet underlay and tastes fairly bland also – but it is a good mop for the many types of “wat” – which is essentially curry. The kitchen also seem intent on deep frying every vegetable available – including carrot and courgette. For the less brave, a good selection of pasta (the Italians were here for a while), chips and salad are available. Although we have been warned off lettuce, due to the risk of it holding the water it has been washed in. All in all, I’ve not lost any weight.
The few people I met while training and have been emailing are all here. Most of them will be close by – well within 100km! There are also volunteers from Canada, Philippines, Kenya, Uganda, Sweden and Netherlands – about 10 of them are also doing IT training. At the end of the ICT training – we had a two day IT course to meet existing IT volunteers. We are all “computer experts”. The second day was mainly “sharing” knowledge and skills.
A fair chunk of the sessions involved language training – Amharic. Not dissimilar from a KS3 syllabus we have covered the basics in taxis, shopping, directions, questions, counting – and especially greetings – which is a massive deal here. (If I can attach the photo properly the image is a very polite greeting pronounced - Ten-i-istiling) Unfortunately, although the national language is Amharic – where I’m going they mainly speak – Tigrinian!
As well as language training, we have had many lectures on Ethiopian culture. The “Dos and Don’ts”, expectations, similarities and differences etc. Thankfully, after a few days we were let loose to practise our language as we embarked on a pre-set scavenger hunt in groups. This involved using the “in-line” taxis, which constantly weave in and out of other traffic, carrying passengers around, and in and out of the centre. Standing at the side of the road, you listen for the final destination that the “redat” shouts (boys aged 7-15). Squashing on, you pay about 1-2 Birr (5-10p) and shout “woraj” when you want to stop.
Everyone, as you would expect, is very friendly and helpful. They want to practise speaking English so often make things easier, even when faced with difficulties, there is always someone else who translates. The city offers pretty much anything you may want to buy. Most things being cheaper – expect luxury Western items like chocolate. We had to buy our vegetable team name – red onion, a paper and find the price of various other items. However, I can proudly announce that my group won, even though I was charged eight times too much to get my shoes cleaned, cooking oil as a shiner is extra! You live and learn. Although admittedly, we were lucky enough to be called a vegetable that was in season and readily available.
The weather has generally been very good. It is nearing the end of the rainy season, so when it rains, it pours. Addis is generally cooler than further north where I’m going. I’ve been caught out twice without a jacket and returned soaked to the skin, which has brought great hilarity to the local population, who shout laugh and shout “ferenji”, which means “Westerner”. Generally, people stop everything when it rains and take shelter anywhere they can find. I took the opportunity to buy some stamps, which took a while to realise that everything is weighed, so had to guess what I’d be sending. As there are no addresses here as such, people rent PO Boxes. Round the corner was the bank, (they shut early here also!) where I needed to change 100Birr (£5) notes into ones. Standing on the steps, outside the bank, the road slowly turned into a river making me wish I’d brought my umbrella and wellies.
I’ve been lucky enough to meet the Dean, Vice-dean and my counterpart at the college, as well as two current volunteers at the college. We went for a pizza so I have not been completely bereft of Western food. There is a good selection of restaurants and bars, so you can find always find something to eat. Although after attempting to translate the menu, you may find that most of it is not available. There is a bar around the corner from the training centre, so that has seen many of us keeping the staff working late. My last round of 30 drinks cost 240 Birr (£12)! Although in perspective I shall be earning £125 a month.
Thankfully as Ethiopia, like most of Africa, is football crazy so there is always a bar that is showing football, particularly the Champions League. At least there are more Manchester United fans here. The two-hour time difference means watching from 10pm-12pm. Which interestingly is 4-6 Habasha night time (Ethiopian time) as the day runs from 6am in the morning through to 6pm at night.
Thanks for reading and hopefully I’ll update you on my actual placement next time.
Monday, 15 September 2008
First Days
So I have arrived safely. It was about 2am when we landed. Following that was slow baggage load on to the bus and the driver getting lost leaving the car park. Finally made bed for 4am - with breakfast a few hours later. Its all very organised, calm and friendly.
I have been lucky enough to meet a current VSO volunteer who is helping out with this weeks training who has come from Abi Adi. It sounds excellent with lots to look forward to. We are staying at the Red Cross Training Centre in the capital where myself and 50 other volunteers (a very large group for VSO) are sharing a dial-up connection. We have also discovered that nobody can text or phone outside the country - although I have received your messages.
It may be a while before I get another chance to post (as access to the blog does not work), text (all blocked) or send emails (very slow) - so thanks once again for all the final bon voyage messages.
The future is looking slow but very good.
I have been lucky enough to meet a current VSO volunteer who is helping out with this weeks training who has come from Abi Adi. It sounds excellent with lots to look forward to. We are staying at the Red Cross Training Centre in the capital where myself and 50 other volunteers (a very large group for VSO) are sharing a dial-up connection. We have also discovered that nobody can text or phone outside the country - although I have received your messages.
It may be a while before I get another chance to post (as access to the blog does not work), text (all blocked) or send emails (very slow) - so thanks once again for all the final bon voyage messages.
The future is looking slow but very good.
Friday, 12 September 2008
A GREAT BIG THANK YOU
The time has really come - I’m actually off. So all that remains for me to do, while I still have broadband, is once again to thank each and every one of you. Ever since I first suggested the idea, back in May, all of you have been incredibly positive, provided advice and offered assistance if required. For that, I am truly grateful, humbled and pleased that I have so many caring and thoughtful friends.
Firstly, thanks to all that have homed me over the last 6 weeks: The Lawrence family as the first week away from home was always going to be tough. Jon & Jane, Helen & Bill, Matt & Jaye and Jim & Becky and VSO for 9 days of training in Birmingham – the food was very good.
My old class, who will by now have started their exciting journey into secondary school. I wish you all the best and the large red card with your comments on will be the first thing blu-tacked to my wall. All the staff at New Whittington for my gifts and kind words of support when I still had to focus on the end of term. Thanks to Lindie and Dad for storing all my stuff, and to John and Lindie for my lift to the station.
Richard for his truly endless patience when I get stressed with computers and the tools and utilities he has provided which will undoubtedly keep me sane while there.
My leaving do was a lovely experience – so thanks to all that attended including Hannah, Carol, Rob and with Iain, Liz and Ant coming all the way from down south. Thanks to Ant for a quality final night and bed in London the night before I left.
Lou deserves thanks for bringing the idea into the forefront of my mind and providing me with the opportunity to see Africa first hand. Without others carving the way, many of us would not follow.
Next to all those that fed me in that final week: Jez & Sarah – a delicious roast,
Rie, Dan and Mary for a delightful risotto, Lucy & Neil for Steak with multiple sauces and Jim & Becky for the chilli. Furthermore, life would have been very difficult without Jaye providing lifts around Sheffield after I sold my car.
So that Jo, Hannah, Dan and Becca do not feel left out, I would also like to thank them as talking to them and listening to their experiences and advice has helped me to both focus and prepare for this journey.
Lastly to my family for their housing, support (both financial and emotional) and endless patience with my grumpy moods. My brother is likely to very sick of this trip as he has been given the task of looking after my finances and correspondence. Thanks to mum for my final lift to the station.
If I have forgotten anyone else, then I can only apologise, as organised as I have been over the last 3 months, I have had more lists and tasks than ever. I wish you all endless amounts of health and happiness and hope you will be just as keen to see me return.
Firstly, thanks to all that have homed me over the last 6 weeks: The Lawrence family as the first week away from home was always going to be tough. Jon & Jane, Helen & Bill, Matt & Jaye and Jim & Becky and VSO for 9 days of training in Birmingham – the food was very good.
My old class, who will by now have started their exciting journey into secondary school. I wish you all the best and the large red card with your comments on will be the first thing blu-tacked to my wall. All the staff at New Whittington for my gifts and kind words of support when I still had to focus on the end of term. Thanks to Lindie and Dad for storing all my stuff, and to John and Lindie for my lift to the station.
Richard for his truly endless patience when I get stressed with computers and the tools and utilities he has provided which will undoubtedly keep me sane while there.
My leaving do was a lovely experience – so thanks to all that attended including Hannah, Carol, Rob and with Iain, Liz and Ant coming all the way from down south. Thanks to Ant for a quality final night and bed in London the night before I left.
Lou deserves thanks for bringing the idea into the forefront of my mind and providing me with the opportunity to see Africa first hand. Without others carving the way, many of us would not follow.
Next to all those that fed me in that final week: Jez & Sarah – a delicious roast,
Rie, Dan and Mary for a delightful risotto, Lucy & Neil for Steak with multiple sauces and Jim & Becky for the chilli. Furthermore, life would have been very difficult without Jaye providing lifts around Sheffield after I sold my car.
So that Jo, Hannah, Dan and Becca do not feel left out, I would also like to thank them as talking to them and listening to their experiences and advice has helped me to both focus and prepare for this journey.
Lastly to my family for their housing, support (both financial and emotional) and endless patience with my grumpy moods. My brother is likely to very sick of this trip as he has been given the task of looking after my finances and correspondence. Thanks to mum for my final lift to the station.
If I have forgotten anyone else, then I can only apologise, as organised as I have been over the last 3 months, I have had more lists and tasks than ever. I wish you all endless amounts of health and happiness and hope you will be just as keen to see me return.
Thursday, 11 September 2008
Two Days To Go
A short update. With two days to go, I have once again re-packed. Still nowhere near my 46kg limit. Have tried to keep the garlic powder away from my pants.
Shortly after cancelling my 02 phone (which will stop working on 9th October), I read today that Ethiopian SIMs do not text! So for anyone with spare cash lying around, feel free to call me, otherwise email really will be the only option - at least until Skype or similar can work with Dial-Up.
Photos courtesy of a current volunteer in Abbiyi Adi
The College on the left and my house on the right.
Shortly after cancelling my 02 phone (which will stop working on 9th October), I read today that Ethiopian SIMs do not text! So for anyone with spare cash lying around, feel free to call me, otherwise email really will be the only option - at least until Skype or similar can work with Dial-Up.
Photos courtesy of a current volunteer in Abbiyi Adi
The College on the left and my house on the right.
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