Tuesday, 10 March 2009

Wheels within wheels

Last weekend, while I was in Axum, I met two Germans who were cycling to Tanzania.  Along the way they had planned to interview various NGOs which were working in Africa, specifically helping with ICT.  Their final destination is a group called Linux for Africa who are concentrating on setting up computer labs with free open source software.  They were interested in many aspects, but the main issues discussed were the need for equipment and the sustainability of that equipment and training provided.  The key problem that was raised was perhaps a vast misunderstanding from developed nations (including me before I came) that Africa has nothing, and therefore will accept everything.  As I have discovered here the college has very advanced computers – newer than mine at home!  Even the University courses cover the latest hardware and software.  As I stated in the interview; the last thing Africa needs is to be full of old out-of-date machines, that someone else does not want, and feels better for donating than disposing of.   For the record, the same is even more apparent when it comes to books.  The store is practically full of old, tatty reading books (thrown out of the UK for a reason) and multiple copies of brand new irrelevant textbooks (probably with errors in – why else are they here?)

 

Another issue is that of licensing software (or lack of here).  While the mass globalisation of Microsoft continues, due to a lack of knowledge and experience from the majority of PC users that there may be alternatives; we as ICT "experts" have an opportunity, maybe even duty, to guide Africa on a different track.  The curse could well come when Microsoft, who are undoubtedly aware of this situation, decide to clamp down and start charging and fining various institutions.  Many users do not realise that for every piece of purchasable software there is a free substitute, maybe unconventional, version, often referred to as Open Source or Freeware.   This point is also naturally linked to the spread of viruses.  Everyone is aware of how prone Windows is to virus attack, yet we look for cure rather than avoid evasion.  Some people do argue that virus-writers would include the alternatives in their target, if they were more popular, and we would discover how liable they were to attack.   Having said all that, changes here happen in eras and eons and I cannot imagine the rewriting of course material would begin.

 

Read about their adventures www.wheelswithinwheels.de

 



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Friday, 6 March 2009

Bus Journeys

Every bus trip I go on provides yet more interesting observations and events.  The journey from Gondar after the Simien Mountains was no exception.  We take the road north, which edges close to the border; the road where a bus last year was blown up.  It is expected to take 11-12 hours as the road is not good and it winds up and down sheer cliff faces.  Concrete blocks are sometimes visible.   The occasions they are not are due to us driving so close to the edge and more often because they have already fallen down the side.   The Italians, with their Alps experiences, built it while they were here last time.  Although a relatively small place, the bus will terminate at Shire, a small place on a regional border.  From there we are required to get another bus for the final 2 hour drive.  We finally arrive in Axum just before 9pm, having left just before 6am.

 

On the way we are subject to the usual "Where are you from?", "How do you find the condition of Ethiopia?" and "Are you fine?".  While we are becoming very comfortable with the country; it is easy to forget that for many local people it is a great opportunity to talk English, or just to simply stare at strange white people.  One geography teacher assures me that England is in the Southern hemisphere; a small child looks confused at the ceiling, when the radio is turned on; and I wonder why the driver is revving a diesel engine in between dropping from 2nd to 1st up a hill.

 

Top 5 common events on a bus.

1.      Banging knees and head over bumps

2.     An extra person crammed on carrying 20 plastic bottles, sack of tef flour and a stick

3.     Windows closed

4.     Music so loud it is impossible to use an mp3 player

5.     Traffic police stopping the bus, saluting, checking one ID and getting back off.

 

Go to http://alexlittle.net for more information

 



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Cool Lamp

Just a video of a cool lamp that Chris got as a gift.  I know, I should be working but there really is nothing to do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KW7hzeOJPx4

 



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Thursday, 5 March 2009

I’m having kittens

Actually it's not me but Chris's cat, who this week gave birth to 3 kittens.  Muffin decided over the New Year to start a family and hung around the neighbourhood looking for potential partners.  She did not have to search for long and also quickly discovered that you can have more than one.  For all those concerned, mother is doing well, eating more than normal and is partial to licking her newborn.



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Wednesday, 4 March 2009

Simien Mountains

The Simien Mountains are in the north of Ethiopia and are home to over ten 4000-metre peaks.  The tallest being Ras Dashen at 4600m.  Our plan was not to hike up that but close enough with Bwahit at 4400m.  Debark is the town at the starting point at around 3200m and the plan is to walk into the range, camping at 3 sites, taking in some peaks and wild animals along the way.  We aimed to see baboon, wolf/fox and ibex and succeed with all.  The wolf is the most amazing as there are only 30 left.  See http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/.  During the day, it is still hot but the temperature drops to just above freezing by early evening and I head for bed by 7pm shivering.  Having brought my walking boots, and fleece to Ethiopia, I failed to bring them to the only place I will need them.  With park fees and a guard compulsory (not sure why); we have also hired a guide, mules and a cook.  Recognisable food is served at a table from a man dressed in chef whites.  All very comical.

 

The mountain range offers great contrasts.  You can feel incredibly small with the enourmity of the place yet turn around and see a truck driving through churning up dust right behind you.  From the views you can look out and see nothing but more mountains for miles.  Similar in style to the Blue Mountains – although much less green at the moment.  Then look another way and you will see views reminiscent of the Lakes or the Peaks.

 

We stop off at a small village and are invited in for coffee.  We are expected to pay of course; they are fully prepared for travellers.  However, I've experienced many coffee ceremonies while I've been here but they've all been a little fake and easy.   Here, life is difficult.  Even in the middle of the day, very little light penetrates the hut.  Inside is a small fire burning, it takes a while for me to get used to the smoke and darkness.  When my eyes adjust, I see a sheep lying in the corner, a young child cradling a baby and a few commonly seen tourist keepsakes hanging on the wall.  This time they're not for sale but real life tools that help the family cope with the challenges of day to day life.  As we leave, the moment raises a common experience here.  Do you pay over the odds for the coffee (as many other tourists will) and keep the expectation going that foreigners can afford it or pay the actual rate and look ungrateful? 

 



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Tuesday, 3 March 2009

Flying to Gondar

After 2½ weeks in Addis, I was ready to leave.  Waking early to travel, is common here and today is no different with a 4am start, ready for a 6:30am flight.  I am joined at the airport by Alex, Marcel and Rene as the four of us are packed and ready to take on the Simien Mountains.  The departure area appears more busy, congested and disorganised than usual.  It would appear that the computers are down.  Never mind, there is always paper and pen!  Even at an airport, frequented by people familiar with other cultures and the necessary safety systems in place, everyone's personal desire to check-in takes priority.  My very British attitude to queue jumpers emerges as I stand with elbows out and stare at people with no effect.  I try to explain to a marshall as she encourages me to move back, that I am standing in the way of people walking around the outside and pushing in.  No effect.  I feel like a drug dealer that will get stopped any second, as my bag is a collection of medicine, that I have been asked to distribute to the many volunteers, I will visit on my way back to Abi Adi. 

 

A few hours later, we are resting in the departure lounge and learn that the flight is delayed due to "fog" up north.  That'll be a first.  Thankfully there is an Ethiopian lady who has been living in London for 5 years who explains all for us.  She shares her feelings with us about being back and confirms our opinions about what is holding Ethiopia back from development.  A man walks through pushing a trolley of cake and pepsi.  No announcement, but it would appear common knowledge that this should initiate a scramble that, I am not ashamed in saying, reminds me of a pack of chickens in a corn-fest.  What is left by the time I stand up to collect my share is on the ground: trampled, broken and sticky.  No matter, there are a collection of shops to purchase food from, once I have persuaded the scanners I wish to eat sensibly.  Except you can only buy food if you are travelling international.  Is that usual?

 

Time is passing.  We go through all the travel games we know and decide sleep is a better option.  As lunch approaches they send us to a restaurant to eat for free.  Still "hazy" at our destination.   4:30pm, 12 hours after I woke, we are told that our flight is cancelled we should return tomorrow for 10am.  Actually, after a few phone calls, it is does not affect our plans greatly, but a group of tourists on a tight schedule have to abandon their plans for Gondar and move to Axum without passing Go.

 

The following morning, the airport seems a different place as we are whisked through.  No free cake but we do leave on time.  The only surprise is that we will fly in a Focke Wulf, which is a small propeller driven plane.  I have heard stories about them being less than smooth but I have no complaints.  Within less than an hour, I am back up north where I belong in a hot, dry climate.  I later find out that the fog from yesterday was a sandstorm that had affected all of North Africa.

 



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Monday, 2 March 2009

In Country Training – February 2009

When I returned to Addis for the Ethiopian run, it was an interesting feeling returning with more confidence in communicating and travelling around on the taxis.  The flight cost 1200 Birr (£60) but considering that is more than half a month's wages.  I am glad for two reasons that I am not living here.  One, they have not had the opportunity to see the country or witness as much cultural differences and two, the capital is dirty, smelly and too fast living – the same as I see London.  However, it is all worth it though, as I was able to catch up with the many volunteers who have stayed in the capital.  The main advantage, as ever, is the chance to purchase some rare items: risotto rice, coathangers and peanut M&Ms.

 

This second time returning to the Red Cross Training Centre to help the new volunteers was a exciting experience and opportunity.  Arrogant it may be but I knew when I was there the first time I could see myself doing this job.  Planning the week before was frustrating as names kept being added and removed from the list just days before arrivals.  Packs were produced and over 1000 plastic wallets were opened.  Despite the work however, it is always interesting seeing the work from the other side of the fence.  As volunteers are not just accepted from the UK; they also arrive from Canada, Australia, Philippines, Kenya, Uganda, Netherlands and India; I became a regular at the arrivals lounge.  One day I was there welcoming an Aussie at 4am which was followed by the Brits the following morning at 1:30am.  Bedtime at 3:30am - that was a long day.

 

The week went by quickly.  Made all the more easier as I dispelled a few rumours, started a few of my own and tried to let people come to terms with life without internet banking and facebook.  The highlight of the week had to be leaving the British Embassy.  As a guard witnessed someone taking a photo, after being explicitly asked not to, he was whisked back inside and clearly given a stern talking to.  Sheepishly he returned minus photographs.



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