Settling in

So another week is on its way and whereas work before has been new and exciting, I now feel that I am making headway and starting to do something.  Other volunteers have yet to start (often due to the placement being inept and disorganised).  Thankfully, my college was one of the first to work with VSO and is well versed in what to expect – whether it to be a ferenji moan or crazy behaviour – they've seen it all before.

 

Last weekend I visited Mekelle to see friends and shop.  My first attempt at using the bus service.  A 5am start for a not entirely expected departure for 6am.  In fact, I was very lucky, as it left at 7.  The mixture of desires to sleep and see the scenery at the same time mean I see nothing and bang my head on the window every time the bus goes over a stone.  The experience is interesting as a number of passengers request small plastic bags to be sick in (I later find out that it could well be their first time on transport) before throwing them out of the window.  This is nothing to the constant spitting due to small sticks being used as toothpaste and a steady stream of something liquid on the floor!

 

The weekend was fun, as we went out to a club and danced the night away Tigrinian style – i.e. the epileptic chicken dance interspersed with a little Bob Marley, Queen and Buena Vista?!.   Pizza and a fancy hotel was a real treat.  I was able to buy bulbs and dividers so now have light in the bedroom and kitchen.  I won't miss cooking by candle-light.  The open air market and selection of shops makes the place feel like a sprawling metropolis.  The highlight however was attending an Ethiopian wedding.  While there were many similarities: swapping of rings, priest talking, eating food and drinking; there were many differences.  The day begins at the grooms (with dancing in and outside the house), who then with his posse travels to the bride's house (followed by dancing in and outside the house).  After the food and families swap gifts, both clans travel back to the grooms for yes … more dancing in and outside the house.  Everything at the moment is not only new, but often a real eye opener, head turner or to quote Blood Diamond – TIA.  Even the journeys between the houses were interesting.  As a line taxi normally meant for 10 doubles its capacity, to avoid being stopped and presumably to make it "legal", it beeps its horn when a policeman is in sight.  Nevertheless, for those who witnessed my Indian flower dance, you have a treat in store when I return.

 

The journey back in the space of a few minutes showed real contrasts within the culture.  Not only did a stranger offer to help me pay my fare (the price rose over the weekend and I did not have enough) but also a whip round along the way of small change was thrown out to lone shops (presumably an occasional provision stop).  However this was followed by a guard stopping the bus, demanding to see tickets from random people, who then proceeded to throw them back at the traveller's feet.  Needless to say he did not ask to see mine.

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