Visiting Mekelle (one of my IT purchasing trips) I was able to do the tourist thing and walk to a nearby waterfall. The nearby village was a 5km walk from Mekelle across a set of fields of tef -turned into flour to make injera. On the journey, a man walking his donkey decided it was his duty to carry our bottled water and directed a young lad to guide (called guards) us to the waterfall when we arrived in the village. The guide book prepares you for the excitement and clamour that exists to be your official guard. We quickly had a group following us who all intended to claim sole rights over this role. After some negotiation we agreed on two guides, the original young lad who spoke no English (age 7ish) and a 10 year old who spoke very good English, leaving some older lads very disgruntled.
On the far side of the village and down a very dry, steep, slope with stone walls used to prevent erosion and growing we saw the falls in front of us. Although no larger than a waterfall in the UK, the sight of water really does become an oddity. I've passed a river the other day and just stared at it.
Down the slope and using the fertile land a farmer was growing a fine selection of fruit and vegetables – reminded of a corn field in a horror movie. I stopped regularly to rest in the heat (although pretended I was taking photos) while our guide became restless with the pace. A quick reminder of his fee shut him up.
I was not expecting the site at the base of the falls. As I climbed up the rocks, there was a party of 20 or so locals swimming and diving away with a stereo and tv that had been brought down. I was later told that people convert tvs to run on battery power!?
Unfortunately, thirty minutes later as we headed off up the slope, an older boy who had hung around asked me for his payment. He did seem to accept that he had not shown us where the falls were. As he grabbed hold of our guide and we walked off, he spoilt the atmosphere with idol threats about returning and throwing stones. Thankfully, further up the slope, our friendly guide caught us up. However he told us that the other boy had stolen money from him.
At the top and back on through the village, our younger guide accepted the money, while our English speaking guide decided he should have more and followed us for a while. We decided that whatever he got he would have wanted more and we felt comfortable that he had been paid well. Apart from the constant barrage of "you", "give me money" and "ferenji", a good day.
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