One unexpected new experience for me is enjoying coffee. Sharing not one, but three small cups of coffee is a tradition that has its very own expanded ceremony. The servant will begin by fanning the metal bucket of warm charcoals with a wicker mat until flames can be seen. Fresh beans are then roasted slowly in a small saucepan until they change from a yellow to black. The saucepan is then brought over to the hosts and guests to sniff the coffee and admire accordingly.
While the beans cool, a few coals are moved to a smaller box which then has eucalyptus leaves sprinkled over - which for me just fills the room with smoke. The beans are then mashed with an iron bar in a pestle (or is it the mortar?) as water is heated over the coals in a small clay bulbess jug. [The repetitive sound of coffee beans being turned into dust has become my daily alarm clock.] While the beans are stewing away, having been added to the water, the cups are washed and a good helping of sugar is spooned in. It would then appear that it is more important to have the cup full to the brim than care about spilling the coffee everywhere. "Turum bhuna" is the phrase to say when you receive the brew. I was intrigued to hear that each cup has a name: "awel", "towna" and "birKa". That was until I was told they meant first, second and third. It's a good opportunity to relax as the whole ceremony can last about an hour.
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