Danakil You Tube Video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSsjFypdxHM
The video begins with the journey towards the salt plains through the villages and then pans across the salt plains. After a short walk up the slope, the various rock formations and hot geysers bubble away. The final section shows the camel trains being organised followed by the salt being mined.
Having been here now for over 4 months, I feel truly experienced :-) and relish the prospect to pass on my new found knowledge to fresh volunteers, who find themselves in the position I was last September. So with that in my mind, I put my name forward last week to help those travelling out this February. For whatever reason, maybe a lack of names or simply someone to set up the Internet, I have been chosen and will be in capital for 2 weeks. While this opportunity is very exciting, different from training and full of potential mischief; it will actually mean leaving Abi Adi for a month. This includes a 2 week trip to the Simien Mountains which houses the tallest mountain in Ethiopia – Ras Dashen (4533m). I shall be venturing into the peaks with some other volunteers; and as well as conquering a few peaks, will hopefully see ibex, baboons, monkeys and hyenas.
As the College Sports Tournament reached a close, the Elementary School Teachers arrived in their kit of Arsenal and Manchester United shirts. It was clear from the outset that the home college team had given little thought to preparation. A large crowd had turned out however, if to see nothing else than the new signing, a ferenji playing at left back. He stood and watched as his team argued over positions and probably wondered what the tactics were going to be. He did not have to worry – they had none.
There was a traditional opening to the game with the sharing of penants, teams lining up and shaking hands in true International style. Playing in all blue, the college team, familiar with the rocky, uneven surface of their home turf played a simple long ball game which incorporated shots from inside their own half. The tall, thin, white boy seemed bemused with his teammates lack of awareness but quickly got into the flow and happily booted it up field to rapturous applause from the crowd. The visitors were much happier with quick passes enabling them to penetrate the deep non-marking defence regularly. In goal for the college team was a Science teacher who stepped in at the last minute and performed admirably. In front of him, two solidly built defenders that enjoyed hoofing it up to the front instead of using the wings.
Half-time came with the scores still 0-0. In fact, late into the second half it looked very much like staying that way until the college gained a corner. The sports teacher stepped up, crossed the ball, just as a college midfielder barged into the keeper. The referee, who had a brilliant game, unfortunately missed this incident, as the ball sailed straight into the goal. With the goal standing, the college team had to survive a few scary final minutes. The game ended, with many of the crowd storming the field, simply to shake the ferenji's hand and to state that they "appreciated his play". Both teams headed straight for the local restaurant for a celebration dinner.
One of our three drivers to the Danakil was "Gebre Fano". Our guide, on the morning of leaving, had to call around at the last minute as our numbers rose. When he arrived, the only obvious difference from his 4x4 to the others was some bright, cheesy posters on the side clearly advertising a singer. It quickly transpired; he was that very same singer. Not only that, he is very famous in this region, particularly as rose to the rank of colonel in the TPLF. The Tigrinian People's Liberation Front were key in overthrowing the Derg communist regime in 1991. However, he did not become an instant hit with us, as he spent the morning trying to complete a deal selling a box of CDs and conspiring with the local fuel station to rip us off by getting us to pay for the people in front. Once underway, it appeared that he had only accepted the job purely as a promotional tour and seemed intent on stopping at every small village en route to improve his market share of cassettes. Although at first highly amusing; these delays, combined with his driving similarity to a Fulham Road Farmer, unfortunately meant our plans had to change, and our trip to an active volcano had to be postponed. Acting like a petulant, attention-seeking little boy: he infuriated our guards by showing off shooting his gun in a bandit area; insisting on showing the experienced Afar village elder how to skin a goat; vandalised the salt crystal formations by kicking off some for a souvenir; and then demanded more money for petrol (after pretending the dashboard was not working by removing a fuse). All in all, the moral of the story is: Singers have roadies for a reason. P.S. Fano is not his real name – he changed it. Fano means Hero!
Last weekend, I have been on a mini-adventure. A mixture of VSO volunteers and GTZ (German NGO) headed off into the Afar region, which is a poorly developed area even by Ethiopian standards. We leave Mekelle and head east for about 8 hours (about 50km). Most of the journey is slow and bumpy and our 4x4s are essential. The Danakil depression is registered as the hottest (average of 35oC and maximums of 50+); the lowest (-116m) and has to be one of the remotest places on this planet. Starting from an altitude of 2000m, as we descend into an enormous valley, the temperature rises. Along the way, the track changes from a steep mountain pass, to an easily missable desert path, to a dry, rocky river bed which offer their own obstacles. The river bed will flood in July and August, and off to the side, we can see examples of the immense geological pressures that created such an impressive feature. We have taken an English-speaking fixer/guide from Mekelle, who half-way at Berhala, arranges for the compulsory local guide and police guards to join us and show us how to continue along the same single track.
Due to time constraints, we camp out at our first night by a waterfall just short of our destination – Hamidela. A full moon, campfire and freshly slaughtered goat make the evening popular with both cultures. The Afar people are nomadic, dress traditionally in colourful wrapped skirts and have visibly different bone structure to Tigrinians. The following morning we continue on to the army-manned village that acts as a gate to the Depression. Six more guards (soldiers this time) join our convoy, allegedly for protection as Eritrean resistance have kidnapped people in the past. They escort us across the vast salt-covered Lake Asale - which is the Depression. At the far end they fan out and search the small hill in front of us for bandits. At the top is a beautiful collection of orange, yellow and green sulphur geysers and stalagmites that change position and structure each year. Down on the plain, we visit a larger geyser and two rocks that stand out as the only rock for miles – (see Bible and the Story of Lot for more information). Apart from being a special place for tourists to visit, salt is mined in the area and used across Ethiopia. 40-strong camel caravans trek in and out (a million per year) along the same route we took, transporting 100kg of salt blocks that fetch a mere 2 Birr in the local village before being sold for 20 Birr in the capital.
My words will not do the place justice, so I leave the pictures to speak for themselves. Visit http://www.flickr.com/photos/30047150@N02/
With my sewer drain blocked and the back garden slowly housing a flowing river, I requested someone to fix the problem. It should be noted that this original request was a few weeks ago and has only just been carried out. After an initial assessment, my surveyor instructed his commies where to dig the channel to check the pipe. Unfortunately a few hours later, they were told that the channel may not be underneath there. So as my back yard slowly became reminiscent of a WW1 trench, the two students (wearing sandals!) shoved and prodded a whittled branch in and out of the blockage. Not sure they would pass Dynarod's health and safety procedures but they fixed the problem and maybe the badminton court is back on!
Below is a selection of names with their meanings in brackets.
A: Addisalem (New World), Assefu (Advance)
B: Berhane (Light), Birkty (blessed)
C: Chirkos (baby SAINT),
D: Deselgn (Happy), Desta (Happiness)
E: Endrias (SAINT), Eyrusalem (Jersualem)
F: Fikadu (Permission), Frehiwot (new life)
G: Goitom (Lord), Genet (Heaven)
H: Haftom (Rich), Hiwot (life)
K: Kebre (Respect), Kidan (Promise)
L: Lemlem (Fertile land), Leterbrhan
M: Muluberhane (Full of light), Mesila (Copy)
N: Nuruhsen, Netsanet (Freedom)
Q: Quhellen (Eye-liner)
R: Redae (Helper),
S: Shisay (Wealth),
T: Tesfay (Hope), Tekle (Plantation)
W: Woldu (Son of),
Y: Yassin, Yemane (Rights)
Z: Zelealem (Forever) , Zewdu (Crown)
Some interesting translations I think you'll agree.
The process of family names and naming babies is quite different. Out goes the concept of a family name descended for generations, as does a woman taking a man's name when they marry. Instead, each child takes their father's name as their second name. Therefore, where we mainly have distinct firstnames and surnames; here there are just first names everywhere. Each region also has its favourites: so lots of people in Tigray have "Gebre", "Hiwot" or "Berhane" included. This is often shortened to G/ or H/. This means that in polite introduction I am Ato Andrew – "Mr Andrew".
One unexpected new experience for me is enjoying coffee. Sharing not one, but three small cups of coffee is a tradition that has its very own expanded ceremony. The servant will begin by fanning the metal bucket of warm charcoals with a wicker mat until flames can be seen. Fresh beans are then roasted slowly in a small saucepan until they change from a yellow to black. The saucepan is then brought over to the hosts and guests to sniff the coffee and admire accordingly.
While the beans cool, a few coals are moved to a smaller box which then has eucalyptus leaves sprinkled over - which for me just fills the room with smoke. The beans are then mashed with an iron bar in a pestle (or is it the mortar?) as water is heated over the coals in a small clay bulbess jug. [The repetitive sound of coffee beans being turned into dust has become my daily alarm clock.] While the beans are stewing away, having been added to the water, the cups are washed and a good helping of sugar is spooned in. It would then appear that it is more important to have the cup full to the brim than care about spilling the coffee everywhere. "Turum bhuna" is the phrase to say when you receive the brew. I was intrigued to hear that each cup has a name: "awel", "towna" and "birKa". That was until I was told they meant first, second and third. It's a good opportunity to relax as the whole ceremony can last about an hour.
While many of you look forward to a day off work sitting in front of Empire Strikes Back or Turner and Hooch, think of me having to crawl into work and train. Actually, I have had a lovely evening as a number of colleagues recognised it was ferenji new year and stayed up till 12. I was presented with a set of traditional Ethiopian dress which as you can see I am wearing with style. I wish all of you a Happy New Year and hope that 2009 brings much happiness.
